Vintage Yves Saint Laurent Heels

Heels stamped with the original Yves Saint Laurent name — the era before the 2012 rebrand to Saint Laurent Paris — are now archive pieces. The oval YSL logo drawn by Cassandre in 1961, the signed leather sole and the heel construction assembled inside the rue Spontini ateliers separate these couture shoes from the more recent Anthony Vaccarello production. The catalogue currently holds 160 vintage YSL heels, with prices starting near €80 and climbing above €600 for the most-hunted Rive Gauche pieces.

Silhouettes and heel shapes

The YSL archive falls into four families. The pointed-toe seventies/eighties pump, lifted straight from Yves Saint Laurent's tuxedo tailoring, sits on a stiletto or spool heel between 8 and 10 cm — the historical partner of Le Smoking. The retro platform, inherited from the 1970s, layers a wedged sole, an ankle strap and two-tone leather. The round-toe couture pumps read closer to an opera shoe: stacked heel, short shank, YSL-stamped leather lining. Later, in the 2000s, the Tribute platform sandal and the closed-toe Tribtoo arrived from the same last.

Sizing runs from 35 to 41, sometimes in half sizes on Italian-made pieces. Always check the inner-sole length in centimetres before buying — couture YSL lasts tend to fit narrow, especially on pointed-toe pumps.

Materials and construction details

YSL relied on four core leathers. Smooth calfskin — black, oxblood, tan — is the most common. Patent leather, mirror-bright, paired with evening shoes and saturated colours (post-box red, midnight blue). Suede often features on the wedged platforms and develops a sought-after patina. Finally, tuxedo silk and gold or silver metallic leather appeared on runway pieces. The natural leather lining stamped with the oval YSL logo, and the signed leather sole reading "Made in Italy", are the first authentication checks.

Price and value on the pre-owned market

The price of a vintage Yves Saint Laurent heel hinges on era, model and leather condition. On JoliCloset, expect roughly €80 to €200 for a wearable seventies classic pump, €200 to €400 for Tribute and Tribtoo in patent or suede, and above €400 for signed runway pieces or limited gold-leather editions. The pre-owned market sits well under current Saint Laurent Paris retail and gives access to discontinued models the boutique no longer carries.

Authentication, resoling and care

Every YSL heel is authenticated by our specialists before listing: oval YSL stamp in period lettering, leather sole, heel, Italian markings and finishings are all reviewed. On the upkeep side, a leather resole at a proper cobbler genuinely extends the life of a vintage heel, and regular polishing brings back the patina of a smooth calf or suede.

To round out a Yves Saint Laurent wardrobe, browse the Maison's YSL sandals, ankle boots, boots and mules.

Sell your Yves Saint Laurent heels

Have an archive pair of YSL heels in your wardrobe? JoliCloset gives you access to an international audience of vintage couture collectors. List the item, our experts authenticate and price it, and it goes live for sale. Vintage Yves Saint Laurent in good condition tends to move quickly — Tribute, Tribtoo and the seventies Rive Gauche pumps in particular.