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Spille Yves Saint Laurent vintage

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Vintage Yves Saint Laurent Brooches, Pre-Owned | JoliCloset

Driven by Loulou de la Falaise and produced by master jeweller Robert Goossens, Yves Saint Laurent elevated the brooch to a fully fledged couture piece. Vintage YSL brooches, engraved in period lettering, ran down the runways of rue Spontini — pinned on the lapel of Le Smoking, on a white jabot blouse or on a Russian-collection shawl (1976), they defined part of the Rive Gauche grammar. JoliCloset currently holds 49 YSL brooches in stock, with prices starting near €80 for simpler pieces and reaching above €600 for signed Goossens brooches in pristine condition.

Recurring motifs and reference collections

The YSL costume-jewellery archive turns on a handful of recognisable motifs. The crowned heart, drawn in homage to Loulou de la Falaise, remains the most iconic piece: red enamel cabochon, pearls, white crystals and a gold-plated crown. The baroque flowers in gilded metal and vitreous enamel, signed Goossens, came in multiple colourways (orange, fuchsia, moss green). Stars, feathers and bows were drawn from the tuxedo wardrobe. The YSL logo brooches, in gold lettering on enamel or paved in rhinestones, appeared from the late 1990s and read instantly. Worth noting too: the Russian collection (1976) with its Byzantine crosses, and the Spanish collection (1977) with its feria florals.

Materials, finishes and dating

YSL ateliers worked a tight vocabulary: gold-plated metal (often 24k gold-plated on signed Goossens pieces), glass cut as a precious stone in cabochons, vitreous enamel in burgundy, ivory, empire green, resin or glass faux pearls, and Swarovski rhinestones in claw settings. The engraved signature on the reverse — "Yves Saint Laurent" in cursive or the YSL initials in the oval logo — usually sits alongside a "Made in France" mark. 1970s pieces often carry the full signature; 1990s-2000s pieces only the YSL logo.

Price and value on the pre-owned market

Pricing on a vintage Yves Saint Laurent brooch depends mostly on rarity and signature. On JoliCloset, expect roughly €80 to €200 for a logo brooch or a simple motif in good condition, €200 to €400 for enamelled flowers and crowned hearts from the Rive Gauche collections, and above €400 for 1970s Goossens-signed pieces or runway brooches. For collectors, YSL archive jewellery sits among the most-hunted in the costume-jewellery market, alongside Chanel and Lanvin.

Authentication and care

Every brooch is authenticated by our specialists: engraved YSL signature, original pin mechanism, plating, integrity of the enamel and stone settings are all checked. On the upkeep side, keep brooches away from perfume and hairspray (enamel ages quickly with chemical contact) and store flat in a textile pouch. A vintage YSL brooch sits perfectly on a tailored blazer, a fitted coat, or in a cluster on a silk scarf.

To explore the rest of the vintage Yves Saint Laurent jewellery, see the Maison's YSL earrings, necklaces, bracelets, pendants and rings.

Sell your Yves Saint Laurent brooch

Have an archive YSL brooch? JoliCloset puts the piece in front of an international audience of couture jewellery collectors. List the item, our experts authenticate and price it, and it goes live for sale. Goossens-signed brooches, crowned hearts and the enamelled flowers from the Rive Gauche collections are among the most-hunted pieces on the platform.

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